This looks ominous alright, but in reality was just a wakeup call to get attention on a poor idling oil pressure problem. The light in this picture, was caused by a typical trouble with the pressure sender wire insulation. But I would see the light normally at hot idle, running Mobil 1 10W-30, going out as soon as the throttle was opened. Having read the PO's receipts (I am the second owner) I was fairly sure the shop bungled an oil pump change at around 254K, evidenced by the subsequent complaints and the jug of Castrol left in the trunk. Before attempting the following, I read an account by Paul Despres published on the Brickboard at which was fairly recent at the time. I also studied the procedures in Haynes, Bentley and the Volvo green manual. The Volvo documentation suggests ten steps: (1)Drain (2) Remove belly pan (3) Remove motor mounts (4) Release steering shaft (5) Lift engine slightly (6) Remove left engine mount (7) Remove crossmember bolts (8) Remove engine-bellhousing bracket (9) Remove sump screws and (10) Rotate and pull down sump.

I warmed the engine, drove up the ramps, set the p-brake and dropped the belly pan. Later, disconnecting the crossmember from the car's chassis, I realized I should have supported the front of the car at the jacking points, as the camber changed some with the crossmember being lowered just a bit. This could affect the stability of the ramp's support of the car.

I shut it off, drained the oil, removed the filter, and replaced the drain plug.

Remove motor mount nuts from crossmember. Used 17mm socket.

Closeup of lower steering u-joint.

Shows yoke at right angle to last photo.

Wider look includes rod splines.

Remove lock from clamp bolt.

Remove clamp bolt. Though marked 8.8, this bolt head matched my 1/2“ wrench better than my 13mm. The 12 did not fit.

Be careful not to damage rack's dust seal, brake lines, or splines when easing u-joint's socket loose. Not shown is the open part of the clamped joint that can be split a bit wider with a large screwdriver to loosen it. Be careful to note the spline pattern or mark the location well for reassembly. A little later in the procdure, I removed the clamps holding the two brake lines to the crossmember.

Time to stretch and award the well-deserved medal.

Drop engine-tranny brace. 17mm socket. Note two bolts are longer than the rest. Note my auto transmission cooling lines use 5/16“ brass compression splices.

Here is a better engine lifting support - made from electrical U-channel.

Raise the motor and watch the motor mount bolts disappear from the crossmember. I was careful to pay close attention to clearances at firewall, fan and shroud, but neither presented a difficulty with the small lift needed to clear the motor mount bolts.

Loosened 4 crossmember to chassis bolts. 17mm socket.

Removed the AMM for easier access. Removed oil dipstick.

Disconnect left motor mount from motor. 3 bolts short bolt toward rear. 12mm socket.

Can reach from underneath.

Used 1/2“ drive ratchet to break the bolts loose and save the knuckles.

Motor mount bolts and engine brace bolts.

Looking just above anti sway bar on right the locating pin is almost cleared while allowing the crossmember to drop. Not shown: I disconnected the clips that hold the two brake lines to the rear face of the crossmember.

A closer view of the crossmember pin. Rack's return hose is tight.

Removed the oilpan bolts. 12mm socket. Used rubber mallet to separate with gasket only peeling in spots.

Pan will not drop enough to turn, and PS high pressure hose is in the way.

Another look at the obstruction at the right of the pan.

Crossmember is hanging lower on passenger side because PS hoses are tight on the driver's side.

Here is a view I included just because you can see one of the oilpump's mounting bolts with the pan yet unremoved. It is the brightest object near the center of the image.

Resigned to dropping the rack. It is held to the crossmember by M8 hardware, used a 13mm socket.

Disconnected PS pump to drain, removed hoses at banjo fittings. 22mm return line, 19mm socket for HP line.

Let it drain. Removed hose connections.

With the PS hoses out of the way, the rack and crossmember gave plenty of clearance. I realized then, the rack could have remained attached, just disconnecting the hoses was enough to allow the pan to be rotated toward the driver's side.

With the pan out, the baffle opening's shape is apparent, with the need to rotate it to clear the pump pickup.

Oh, yes, the reason for doing this.

The oil delivery pipe. This job is being done in 2002 at 300K miles. As I edit this it has 350K miles three years later. The PO had the oil pump changed by his indy Volvo shop at 254K, after which all his oil change receipts were for 20W-50 Castrol (in response to the oil light-at-warm-idle complaints).

A look toward the front main seal carrier.

Oil pump and its two bolts. I had a spare ready to use, but as the problem was so obvious, I elected to leave the new pump in the box for another time. No regrets.

Another look at the parts with the rack mounting hardware.

The ripped oil delivery seal.

Plugged rack connections while cleaning.

Checked for leakage. Note the beating taken during some tie-rod replacement.

Good view of lock washer.

Equalizing vent, I guess.

Placed new seals on delivery pipe.

Refit the pump and delivery pipe, making certain the lubed-up seal is properly straight and seated.

Now the work of cleaning up the gasket surfaces begins. Always the most lengthy part of any job in my experience.

The camera always shows any remaining gasket.

I trued up the pan around the holes using a block of wood as a backup, and a small ballpein hammer. But it is painfully obvious there was gasket cement left in place that could have been better cleaned. Used red RTV (Permatex high-temp) but others have suggested mounting this gasket dry.

The silicone gasket sealant was only applied on the pan side of the new gasket.

It is fun getting the holes in the gasket to align with those in the pan. This was an aftermarket gasket, as I recall.

I added some sealant around the joint between the cast iron and the aluminum seal carrier at the front of the pan.

Here are the copper crush washers for the rack.

I used 240 grit, then 600 grit to remove the ridges. Kerosene or WD40 makes a good cutting lube. I did not anneal the washers. I did take the time to anneal my attitude some.

Used this opportunity to clean up the power steering pump and give it some new mount bushings.

Cleaned it well so I could see any potential leaks.

View of bracket assembly may come in handy.

I pried the crossmember back into place using a breaker bar as coaxing tool. I started the rack input splined shaft into the steering u-joint and re-installed the rack mounts. I reconnected the clamps holding the brake lines to the crossmember.

The locating pin is almost seated. Installed the four bolts, snugged the crossmember to the chassis, and re-tightened the steering u-joint clamp.

Hi pressure hose connection at rear made with 19mm wrench.

Return hose connection tightened with a 22mm wrench. Lower the engine in stages until the motor mount bolts can be guided through the crossmember, then reassemble. Install the engine to bell housing brace, install oil filter, dipstick, AMM, fill oil and PS.