Start with these two screws.

Knee bolster removed. Trim pulled exposes screws.

Screw at top holds dash to support.

Disconnect glove box lamp here.

Dimmer rheostat comes along with dash.

Glove box gone.

Secret screw behind trim strip runs into sheet metal brace under accessory gauges.


Connector for headlamp switch. Bulb-out sensor.

Dash is held at top by three pins into cowl. Bottom is screwed to support rail. Two sheet metal brackets under defroster vents support duct.

Left to right on console: seat belt warning lamp, AC switch, hazard flashers, SRS connector, cigar lighter.

Rail for knee bolster. Note wiring to keyless entry on left and aftermarket radio install on right.

Dash support comes apart in three sections.

Looking down toward console support mount where it is bolted to the floor.

Shift lock relay clipped to support rail in upper right.

Power window relay.

Relays where they live. Left to right clipped to rail: headlight, central locking, central unlocking, power windows.

Headlight relay on this 91 is no longer down by the driver's toes.

Headlight relay unclipped.

Power window relay.

Central locking relay on left, unlocking on right.

AC delay relay.

Shift lock relay.

Clip captures heater control valve cable end.

Fuzzy shot of where to put the screwdriver to release the vent switch from its bracket.

Light pipe illuminates climate controls.

Lamps fit back of light pipe.

With front of console pulled away and disconnected, you are looking down on the short cubby and attached stereo amplifier.

Radio wiring, including cabling to unused amplifier.

Wider view of cubby, amp, and front of heater box.

Cubby, amp, and console frame removed.

Vacuum switch with hose number markings.

Unused amplifier removed.

Screw holding vent duct to heater plenum.

Dash, cluster, and console removed. Note ignition control unit with purple label and fuel injection relay clipped on it.

Overdrive relay.

Power window relay lower left.

Upper right shows breakaway bolt securing column to dash support.

Bolt is center punched for drilling.

Bolt is drilled for screw extractor.

Bolt is extracted. Tray meant to catch turnings to make cleanup easier.

Entire dash support removed.

No dash, no ductwork.

Central to this photo is the AC evaporator connections. Beginning '91 they are solid aluminum with foam insulation.

This is one of those shots that helps remember which side of what a cable was dressed.

AC evap box cap removed.

Heater box mounting loosened at floor next to AC evap box drain.

Clamps holding AC pipes removed at firewall.

Other side of firewall.

Beginning to loosen AC refrigerant piping and attempting to withdraw evaporator from housing.

Preparing to disconnect heater hoses.

Heater box loose. Note upper firewall bracket just left of the left aorta.

With heater box loose and pulling left, AC evap is about four inches out.

Note cowl intake air gasket at top of unit. Box is loose, but evap is hanging tight.

This shot shows the left plenum runs out of room at the ignition lock.

From above, note the room is tight also between evaporator box and accelerator pedal cage, shiny black upper center.

Looking from underneath, white is left side of evap box. Bracket it hits is where the cruise actuator was just removed.

Loosened all AC plumbing brackets under the hood, removed left heater plenum (with aorta), and tugged heater box loose hoping not to fracture the AC lines.

Shot through windshield showing AC almost free.

Position of accumulator at maximum strain on the lines.

Free at last.

Shows rarely seen bottom of heater box. Note push-in heater control bracket in upper right.

Note where heater motor is grounded.

Remember fastening of recirc door spring through both box halves.

Retainer for recirc door hinge pin.

Remove clips to separate box halves to withdraw core.

Old core.

Spend some time with a vacuum cleaner.

Reminder earlier in process, don't forget to tie up heater hoses.

Comparing old and new cores.

Flow through core is simpler in replacement. No complaints about the L-R balance.

Weatherstrip or contact adhesive used to exchange gasketing.

Examine and test recirc door function carefully.

You'll never get a better opportunity to fix this.


New motor (why not) and its ground.

Back where it belongs.

Take care to dress cables where they were to avoid being pinched or getting caught in mechanisms.

Heater panel in place. Ground wires and lights yet to be buttoned up.

Wiring down left side of console frame. Note knee bolster bracket mount point at upper center.

Oh, yeah, we did disconnect the battery...