New Regina pump with beer cozy removed compared with AC prepump and Bosch main pump from 83 B23F. I purchased the Regina pump after a short diagnostic session using an ammeter in series with the pump. The ammeter would fluctuate between about 1A and something above 5A. When it sank to 1A the idling car would die. Measuring the fuel pressure at the rail, crudely with a tire gauge, the same effect was seen - sometimes 25-30 lbs, other times about 5 lbs. This exercise is being done on a '92 940 with 142K miles.
Note similarities between the two tank pumps on the left.
Lots of plastic removed to discover sedan's access to tank unit. Could not determine how to remove last piece held fast at rear pass through.
Access cover says "ow, that hurts!".
Fairly well coated with road grime, but not rusty.
Following the pump outlet from the compression fitting at lower left the flare fitting junction with the steel feed line can be seen near upper right of opening.
Slide the outer ring of quick disconnect toward rear to release. Easier said than done.
Made some more room by first disconnecting filler vent line.
Then disconnect filler line.
The rubber dust seal slid back from compression fitting allows me to inject some snake oil to help coax the connector loose.
A bit of discoloration on the outlet line indicates corrosion that may have helped bond the fitting to the line.
The fuel return line has a steel spring clamp (see previous shot). I have shot sparks when pliers slip off those clamps before, so with enough slack in the return line hose, I'm saving the spring clamp removal for the driveway.
Tap ring loose. Threads are huge, so about two turns and it is off.
Everything loose but the electrical. Camera shows what the rag missed.
Separating the sender cap from the soft rubber seal underneath, the lip is only about 1/8 thick.
Whoa, the fumes!
Should have broken this connection prior to releasing all those fumes, but the key is out of the ignition switch.
The filler hose was in the way. Tried tieing it to the rear.
It still was in the way. Had to remove it from the filler pipe.
Now the unit can be withdrawn. Notice the 90 degree CCW turn to bring it out of the tank at the right rear of the access hole.
Pulled it clear carefully. It doesn't seem quite as fragile as I remember tank pumps on Bosch systems.
The sender in the sunshine. It is 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but the wind is distributing all the plastic trunk trim over the yard.
A view of the Regina sending unit. Return line, feed line, and vent (L-R) can be seen joining the cap.
The entire bottom end is spring loaded to ensure it meets the bottom of the tank, empty or full, cold or warm.
Turned over, the gauge sending unit in its sliding housing is rightmost. What is that double-dished stamping at the top of the pump?
Closeup of the tank seal. The inner edge is indeed split ( I should say bifurcated so you don't think I mean damaged ) to give what appears to be an elastic seal to the tank port's ID when the pressure inside exceeds atmospheric.
If there was less fuel in the tank, this photo might have revealed more detail of the slosh pan at the bottom.
OK, time to swap the pumps.
First my curiosity must be fed.
Supple silicone rubber seals. Hmmm.
Back to the pump swap. The Volvo pump is the original. I am fairly certain, because every wire and hose was in it clip without dual impressions or other telltale hints left by a service tech. The wire leads have chokes ( radio interference suppression coils ) in series. I wonder if that is what is inside the aftermarket pump's white plastic gizmo. Won't hurt to have it doubly filtered.
Cushion pieces separate the pump and line from the dual-dish gizmo.
All right. Had to find out what is in this! The camera can't really see inside, but the dual dish gizmo appears to be a mini accumulator, using a rubber diaphragm under the rolled stamping. My guess is the purpose is to smooth the pump's pulses, or reduce the pressure modulation given by the pump.
With the wind gusting, this little iron was barely up to the task.
I slipped it all back together without the beer cozy that was shipped. It might have fit. It might have made for less noise. But I'm half deaf anyway.
Same sock as goes on a 240, but the old one looked serviceable to me.
Ditched that spring clamp on the return line!
Best view I could get of the new-fangled spring-lock compression fitting used on the feed.
The tools I had out, excepting the soldering iron. Sockets were 7 & 10mm plus torx probably a T20. I tried starting the car, and no fire. Put my tire gauge on the fuel rail-- nothing, just a dribble. Oops, forgot to reconnect the electrical plug to the sender. Then it started, pressure gauge went to 35 with accompanying fuel shower(!) and I drove the car 40 miles home. Well, first I looked carefully for leaks before closing reassembling all the trunk's interior. That part of a 240 sure was simpler than this 940.
Volvo brand pump was made by AC. Pulled the terminal assembly and the pump's mode of failure was obvious.
On the last shot, the melted plastic you see on the knurled brass inserts is a result of heating these two solder cups. I heated them with a large iron and worked the terminal assembly off prying with a small screwdriver. I thought the wires would be left behind, but the cap was pressed into place and the brush leads were soldered after assembly.
Spring and brush lead on left look normal. The one on the right came out without a brush attached.
Can opener at work. You can make out the AC logo at left. Yes, the aluminum housing was clearly stamped "VOLVO".
This is the pre-pump stage. It looks just like the impeller in a tank transfer pump.
With the centrifugal pump stage out, the roller cam pump is the next stage visible.
The positive displacement high pressure stage on the left, next to the permanent magnet motor on the right.
The whole ball of wax.
The commutator wear at 142K.
The spring on the broken brush side looks like it has carried the pump current one too many times.
Better look at the high pressure assembly.
This is the empty housing looking toward the brush holders.